Beyond Geek Lightsaber Builds

Make Your Own Combat Ready Lightsaber

DIY Builds

Odin Abbott (Odin Makes) shows Brittni Barger how to make a combat ready lightsaber.

Extended build from the Beyond Geek – The Force is Strong.

Lightsaber Parts List

– 1 1/4 inch aluminum tube – (ID – 1-inch)

– 1 3/8 inch aluminum tube – (ID – 1 1/4 inch)

– 1-inch polycarbonate tube

– 1-inch acrylic hemisphere for blade tip (purchased from TAP Plastics)

– Soundboard (We used an Obsidian from, but there are other soundboards to choose from.)

– Battery/Speaker combo (from

– 2 LEDs – 1 Color LED for whatever color you want the blade and 1 white LED for flash on clash (We used Cree LEDs from

– 2 Power conditioners for LEDs (one for each LED)

– Heatsink (for LED)

– Momentary Switch

– 1 3/8 inch In-Sink strainer and rubber grommet (Disposal Repair Kit for In-SinkErator) for the pommel

– Windshield wiper blades (decorative)

– Heatsink from a power supply to a video box (decorative)

– #218 O-Rings (decorative)

– Cellophane wrap for diffusion in blade

– Wooden dowel for inserting cellophane wrap into blade

– Aluminum foil tape for reflection on blade tip

– Weld On 4 (solvent to attach blade tip to polycarbonate blade)

Brittni: So, part of becoming a Jedi is building a constructing your own lightsaber with which to fight the forces of darkness. How do we go about starting that process?
Odin: Starting that process? It depends on exactly what you want to do.
Brittni: I really like the look of just the classic, simple lightsabers from the original episodes.
Odin: I like it because I know the original movies were all very much DIY. It was done with found objects. They went out and bought raw materials, bought scrap materials, and built their own stuff, so it’s windshield wiper blades, it’s O-rings, it’s plumbing parts, it’s just extruded aluminum tubing. It’s just existing things, so I’m just going to walk you through that.
Brittni: I’m stoked. Let’s get started.
Odin: So what I have is a couple of pieces of aluminum tubing. This is the tubing I want to use for the hilt. The main piece I’m going to use is this thick-walled. This is an inch and a quarter in diameter, and there’s one-inch on the interior diameter, because that’s the same size as the polycarbonate tubing that we’re actually going to use for the blade, so it will just fit right inside, and we can screw it and hold it in place.
To add a little more detail to the outside, this is just a piece of one and three-eighths, and so it’s one and a quarter inside diameter so the two of them fit together.
Brittni: Okay, and what’s the purpose of that?
Odin: The purpose of this is to make it a little bit wider at the bottom so it’s a little more comfortable to hold, and it’s the beginning of personalizing your actual hilt. What I want to do is cut a small piece off the front, and we’ll put that on first, and then a couple of O-rings, the same stuff you use for plumbing, and then I’ll put the remainder of this on behind it with some windshield wiper blades for a grip. It just adds detail and adds character; it’s very much the way Vader’s saber was originally built. And it’s just comfort and aesthetics.
Brittni: Yeah, I like it. And due to my powers of deduction, I’m going to say that this is going to be our blade.
Odin: Correct. This is a one-inch polycarbonate tubing. And specifically polycarbonate, this is the same type of plastic that your safety glasses are made of. This is actually very similar in strength to steel.
Brittni: Really?
Brittni: So, for me and my fellow Jedi that didn’t take Shop in high school, could I just search this on the internet and find a supplier?
Odin: Yeah. One-inch polycarbonate tubing, it’ll come right up.
Odin: So, we’re gonna go ahead and cut our tubes. When I’ve looked at the other hilts of the sabers, they all seem to be about 11 inches, maybe 12 inches long. We’ll go ahead and figure 11 inches is going to be a good size, we’ll go ahead and cut about five inches here, and that’ll hold the blade and give a stop for the electronics, so we’ll make a five-inch cut, and then that’s all we’re going to be using this piece for.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: Be very slow and steady.
Odin: Mission accomplished; look at that.
Brittni: Alright. Great!
Odin: We’re gonna fit the tubing together. What I wanted to do was make a cut on this one, making a small piece for decorative purposes, and then the rest of the handle will go underneath it. Part of the personality of the saber is how the actual emitter is. The emitter is where the blade comes out of, and there’s all sorts of different types. You can put little funnels on the end of it, you can put a ring around the end of it. A simple thing to do is just to do a 45-degree or 30-degree cut to the end of it. Would you like to do that?
Brittni: Absolutely.
Odin: Take some double-backed tape, stick this down to a piece of wood, we can then cut through it and everything will stay kinda connected. Just put the aluminum tubing square against the fence and then press down with the double-sided tape so it all sticks.
Odin: That was the only reason I put the double-backed tape on was just to try and make that cut as safe as I could.
Brittni: And you did a great job. Very clean.
Odin: Thank you. And now that we’ve made the cuts on all of these, the edges are actually kind of sharp, and you can feel that, especially on the inside, you get these little burrs. So, I’ve got a sanding block and emery board, and all we want to do is, especially on this one, we really want to round this off a little bit, and focus on the inside because we don’t want to scratch the plastic up too much.
Odin: So, to remove the writing, we either use a solvent, or we just sand it off. And with the sanding, it comes right off, but you can see that it starts to polish it up a little bit.
Odin: The blade can vary in length a little bit. Yoda’s was only 32 inches, most of the others seem to be about 39 inches, a lot of things that I read online say 36, on down to 24.
Brittni: So it’s really up to you.
Odin: It’s really up to you. And since it’s kind of up to you, what would you like?
Brittni: I’d like a standard level one blade.
Odin: Level one blade, alright. Let’s go ahead and do 36. So, I don’t just want to cut it 36, because if I want to have 36 inches exposed, I have to be able to put some inside. 37 would probably be good.
Brittni: So, 1-2 inches give beyond what you want. Odin: so you have something to actually put into it.
Odin: Something kind of like that, so there’s kind of the beginning of the light saber.
Brittni: Wow!
Odin: What we want to do next is go ahead and drill this out and tap it so we can put screws in it. One thing I want to do first is add some 5-minute epoxy. That will add some strength all the way around it, and the screw will just really make it secure.
Brittni: Excellent.
Odin: So this is just a two-part 5-minute epoxy. All I want to do is put about an inch or so into this, so I’m going to put just a little bit on the bottom
Brittni: But it doesn’t need to be exact?
Odin: It doesn’t need to be exact, and I’m putting just a little bit on the bottom because when I put them together it’s going to smear it. You see I’ve got a lot of the excess coming out? I’m gonna go ahead and just wipe it off.
Odin: So we got it set in, and while it’s setting up, we’ll go ahead and start putting some of the O-rings on, and then we can mix up some more epoxy and glue the second ring on top of it. I was thinking we could do three.
Odin: And there it is.
Odin: So what I want to do is, we’re going to use a drill press, and the idea with this is, this particular drill bit is the right size to put in an 8/32 screw. Then we can come back with the tap, which is a fancy drill bit, to actually put the threads into the pipe that the screw will grip to.
Odin: What I want to do is, I’ve got the vice set up to help hold it in place for us.
Odin: So yeah, turn it on, and slow and steady wins the race.
Brittni: Got it.
Brittni: Boom goes the dynamite.
Odin: This is a heat sink out of electronics. This came out of a power supply.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: This could theoretically be the housing for the crystal for the saber.
Odin: What I wanted to do was to attach this to the top. We’ll just put a set screw, the thing that holds the blade in place, all the way through this and all the way through the hilt in order to hold the blade and it’ll hold this in place, and then later on we’ll actually put epoxy on this as well.
Odin: Artistically speaking, this is where we want it to go, and when this goes down, it will go through the hole that we’ve already got. 
Odin: What we want to do now is go ahead and tap out the holes that we drilled, and to do that we use a tap which is a specialized drill bit. The tap has go the threads built in, and is able to chew and make the thread pattern inside the hole.
Brittni: Okay, so into each one?
Odin: So into each one.
Odin: Alright, what we want to do is take the set screws and put those in the bottom, and then you just thread that right in there, and go ahead and just screw it all the way in until the top is flush with the saber.
Odin: So that way, if you look inside, they kind of come through a little bit, and the blade will actually hit that and stop, and that will keep it free from actually hitting the optics, the LED, when we put it in there.
Odin: So, to clean this up, that’s a nail buffer. Brittni: Okay.
Odin: As it cleans off, you can get a really good chrome shine out of it.
Brittni: Yeah!
Odin: So that was part of the aesthetic I was thinking, having this be a little more shiny than the rest. Brittni: Yeah, I love that.
Odin: To complete the hilt, we’re going to put the grips on it, and just like the original sabers, I’m going to use windshield wiper blades.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: And I just pulled the windshield wiper blades off my truck because it’s time to change them, anyway.
Odin: Now, we can use, either the actual blade on the bottom, but that’s really thin, so I thought if we just used this side, instead, which is also rubber, it would actually have a better look.
Brittni: Okay, great.
Odin: These are a little wider than the originals, but it’ll work. all I want to get off is is this back piece.
Brittni: So, we’re just peeling them off right now.
Odin: Just peeling them off right now.
Odin: We could try actually just cutting them down, making them lower.
Odin: I also have a piece that I wanted to put on the bottom to help hold the speaker in.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: What I had picked up was an in-sink strainer, this is one and three-eighths, you just drop it into your sink, and then this rubber grommet, this is a piece to a garbage disposal. Those two things fit together. This is the speaker and battery unit all in one. This is the speaker down here, put our AAA batteries here, and then that will be epoxied to keep that in place.
Odin: So, one final round of epoxying. Just make sure it’s as straight as you can be, up and down. Now, it’s not super glue, so it doesn’t just stick and hold.
Brittni: Gotcha, so you have hold it for a little while.
Odin: You do, or we can put some blue tape on it.
Brittni: Oh! Let’s do that!
Odin: Alrighty.
Odin: Set it down to where it feels like it wants to go.
Odin: Just set that in there as centered as it can be.
Odin: So, we’ll let all that set up, and we can start putting the electronics together.
Brittni: Wonderful.
Odin: This is my soundboard. This has all the same type of gizmos you cell phone does to know how it’s moved so it can tell when you’re swinging the saber around. This is the little driver unit. This helps regulate the power coming from the battery to the LEDs. The big benefit of this is, as your batteries are losing power, the LED gets a consistent amount of power and it remains a bright glow.
Brittni: Now, where did you get these at?
Odin: This I got online from LED Supply, and this was a custom made board. Brittni: So you didn’t make this on your own. Someone made this?
Odin: Someone made this. And there are multiple styles of boards available. This just happens to be the one that I picked up.
Brittni: What would you search for?
Odin: I would search for a light saber sound board.
Odin: So, searching online I found a wiring diagram, so this will help me actually set the board up because each wire does something specific.
Brittni: Okay, what should we start soldering first?
Odin: Let’s solder the battery leads on, and then we can solder the speaker on because that’s all one unit.
Brittni: Now how do I heat it up?
Odin: You just touch it with the tip, and then you’re actually adding solder to the wire.
Brittni: Like that?
Odin: Yeah. Odin: Okay, just lay shrink tubing over it. I can feel the solder is in the center, and then the heat gun, just bring that up and apply a little bit of heat to the shrink tubing, and it shrinks down and creates a seal, keeps it from shorting itself out.
Odin: This is the super bright LED that we’re going to use. This is actually a blue LED, and on the sides, you see, it has little squares marked positive and negative, and there’s two of them on there? We only have to use one side. And we’re just going to put a little bit of solder on the wire and set it in place and make a positive and negative connection.
Odin: Now, since I’m doing this myself as a DIY and I’m not getting super specialized parts to begin with, there’s two different LEDs, one that causes the beam glow, and then the LED that causes the flash, I’m going to try and stack the two LEDs next to each other, but the star is a little too big, so we’re going to need to cut one side off. So, we’re can take the wire cutters, because all this is is a little piece of aluminum with a printed circuit board on top and as long as I only cut off one half we’ll be able to connect to the other half and the light should still light up.
Odin: So I’m trying to get it in one motion as much as I can and I’m getting as close to the LED as I can, but I don’t want to be right up against it. I am actually a little concerned about unseating the LED. There we are. I have a secondary battery here so we can test it to make sure it still works.
Brittni: Oh, there you go!
Odin: Good, that lived.
Odin: Now, all of this spaghetti mess of wires we need to put inside of our lightsaber hilt.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: But that’s going to be a bit of a challenge. A bit of a ship in a bottle. If we cut it in half, we can put all of the lights in one side, we can have the batteries in the other side, make it a little bit easier, and then to hide it, or to accentuate it, whichever way you want to look at it, we can add more of the O-rings to it.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: It’ll also give you a little more of a grip up here.
Brittni: Yeah, that’s great.
Odin: So, we want the button to go here, so we’re going to drill a pilot hole with this size and then I’ll trade out bits and then use the other one to drill the bigger hole, and I made a notch so it’ll come back apart leaving the activation switch back in place. There we go.
Odin: So I’m going to take the guts, and I’m going to feed the guts through what is going to be the battery compartment. So, everything is going to come on through first, and we have the two open wires? That’s actually for the switch.
Brittni: Is that both of them? 
Odin: Yes, okay.
Brittni: Shove stuff into other stuff.
Odin: Shove stuff into other stuff.
Odin: We have to put a heatsink on the back of this because when it’s on for a prolonged period of time,
Brittni: It’ll get really hot?
Odin: It gets really hot. They’re really bright, they get really hot. And then for a heatsink, all we need is a piece of metal that can absorb the heat and take it away from.
Brittni: You don’t need to put it on the back of that guy?
Odin: No, because this one isn’t on as long. This just flashes on and off and it’s done. Set this on here, and I’m gonna put hot glue and that’ll hold it in place. I don’t believe that the LED will ever warm up enough to melt the hot glue. Just do a little bit on the side there. So I can actually stack it real good and have them both face up toward the blade.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: We have a lens to put on this to help focus it because, you know, it’s not bright enough all on its own. Now, this is designed to fit on one LED, we’ve got two, so I’m going to cut a couple of the legs off and we’re just going to hot glue it in place. So just give me some hot glue across the bottom and across the top.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: I want to make sure that the focal point of the lens is over the blue because that’s the one that makes the blade glow and be all happy.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: Like that, right?
Brittni: Yes.
Odin: Alrighty. Now, we’ll need to epoxy this, we’re just going to want to put it all on the top up here.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: Five-minute epoxy. Let that set up.
Brittni: Five-minute dance party?
Odin: Five minute dance party! Or what we could do is make a blade.
Brittni: Yeah, let’s do that.
Odin: All this is is the pure clear cellophane, same stuff you’d wrap up floral arrangements or an Easter basket with.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: What we want to do is just roll this out to be the same length that the tube is.
Odin: Alrighty, so about there. I’m kind of eyeballing it. I might be a little bit off but that’s okay.
Odin: Now, the easiest way to do this is with a wooden dowel. Just take a wooden dowel, set it down on the side and just roll this up on the wooden dowel.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: So now that we’ve got the cellophane wrapped up on the dowel, we can insert it into the tube. Then you just unwind it and the cellophane will stick to the inside, allowing us to take the dowel back out.
Brittni: Great!
Odin: Now we have what is the diffusion inside. This is going to help refract the light and help light up the whole blade.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: We’re going to put a tip on the end because we don’t want to hit anyone with this sharp corner, plus it’s a little rounded so it’s a little prettier. One other detail I want to do, I have heater tape. This is actually aluminum foil tape, they use it for ducting, heating inside your house, so I’m going to just adhere this to it. and what I have to glue this onto the polycarbonate is a solvent. It won’t adhere to the aluminum, so what I need to do is actually cut a ring open all the way around so I can have plastic against plastic. And all I’m trying to do with this, the whole reason for putting this, is like having a mirror on the end so when the light comes through it doesn’t just keep shining on out like a flashlight. It’ll reflect back, and it helps keep the upper portion of the lightsaber lit brighter.
Brittni: Got it.
Odin: I’m gonna hold this up vertical, so we’re just going to balance this on the top of it because we’re going to use what is called capillary action. Capillary action is when fluids want to travel between two things that are really close to each other. Since it’s water thin, that’s what it wants to do. To use this type of an applicator, which has got this little tiny syringe like needle on the end I’m actually going to squeeze some of the air out of it, that way I can tip it over and let it inhale and it doesn’t come out.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: I get it close to where I want it to go, squeeze it a little bit, and, I think it’s been long enough.
Brittni: It’s probably done, yeah.
Odin: Just set that in, push it down as far as it wants to go, that’s got the thumb screw. Put that on as tight as you can.
Brittni: Okay.
Odin: It won’t go all the way down. And then we have our other hidden one in here.
Brittni: Look at that!
Odin: So, if you wanted to build a blade just like this one, it’s going to run about $200, but most of that is actually the sound board, so if you take that out, and you just have a blade that lights up, you can run out and beat your friends with, you’re looking at about a $50 build.
Brittni: Wow, Awesome! My very first lightsaber! I’m ready to go complete my Jedi training!
Odin: Yes you are! And may the Force be with you!
Brittni: And with you, Odin Wan Kenobi!

How to Turn a Toy Lightsaber into a Combat Ready Lightsaber

DIY Builds

Odin Abbott (Odin Makes) turns a toy lightsaber into a combat ready lightsaber using the soundboard from a Bladebuilder lightsaber and blade/hilt from the previous build.

Lightsaber Parts List (See “Make Your Own Combat Ready Lightsaber” tutorial for hilt and blade parts)

– Star Wars Bladebuilders lightsaber


– 1 Color LED for whatever color you want the blade (We used a Cree LED from

– Focusing Lens (Narrow Spot from

– Heatsink (We used a bolt)

– Heatsink transfer sticker (from

– LED Driver (We used the 1425 MicroPuck driver from

– PNP transistor (We used the NTE 378)

– Battery/Speaker combo 4-AAA Batteries (from

– Momentary Switch (from

– JST Connectors

– Shrink Tubing

– PVC Pipe (1-inch Schedule 80)

– In our previous video, we showed you
how to make a combat-ready lightsaber from scratch,
but a lot of you have been asking,
“Can we take a toy lightsaber
“and turn it into a combat-ready lightsaber?”
and yes, we can.
We already covered how to make the lightsaber from scratch.
I don’t really want to do that again,
so what I want to do is take all of the guts
out of my combat-ready lightsaber and I’m gonna replace them
with the guts from the toy lightsaber.
Now this is a Bladebuilders Lightsaber.
I picked it up marked down for $10 at Walmart,
but it still has motion sensor, clash, and hum sound,
And the ends are just glued on.
In order to take the body apart,
I have to take the little end-ring off
’cause this is one piece.
I’m gonna go ahead and cut the end off this one
’cause it’s glued on really well.
I’ve had ones where I can just twist them off.
There it goes.
So inside, we have the LED.
This is what’s supposed to illuminate the blade.
It is connected to the circuit board.
This is what the entire brains are.
This has your clash sensor, and on the other side,
it has the motion sensor,
so those are just swinging it around
and everything’s attached to it.
The little two yellow wires come up to the one/off switch.
It’s just a momentary switch.
The two green wires come down to the speaker.
And the whole thing is mounted to the molded-in
battery compartment.
So in order to remove the circuit board,
I’m gonna have to cut the positive and negative lead
from the battery compartment.
I’m removing the remainder of the positive lead.
I don’t need that.
And then here’s the tail from the negative lead.
So let me put this into the clamp
’cause there’s something I really want to show you here.
Something I like is they labeled everything
on the circuit board.
Down here you have the V+.
The V+ is actually the positive lead in
from the battery pack.
The V- is where the negative lead in goes
from the battery pack.
Down here you have an SP+ and an SP-.
Those are the leads to the speaker,
and on this side, you have the LED+ and -.
Now that’s actually important.
If you don’t hook the LED up correctly, it won’t light up,
but if it is incorrect, it’s not gonna hurt the LED.
Just take it off, flip it around, and it’ll come back on.
So I’ve got the batteries jumped back to the board
so it’ll turn it on, just so I could show
that while this LED looks bright,
it really isn’t gonna be bright enough for our blade.
What I’m gonna do is take it off and replace it
with a high-intensity LED that I bought from LED Supply.
Disassembling the board is easy.
All you have to do is heat up the existing solder
and pull the wires right out.
Last time, I attached everything hard-wired
to the circuit board, which made it a little tricky
to get it into the housing that I made.
So this time, I’m going to make everything modular
using JST connectors.
Now you can order these as single pairs that attach together
or you can order a jumper and just cut it in half.
Either way, they’re really cheap.
So I’m gonna make it modular, which will make it much easier
to put it into my housing as well as, in the future,
I can swap our my blue LED for a red LED
when I decide to go Sith.
Now the circuit board limits the amount of voltage
going to the LED so it doesn’t blow out the LED
that it’s made for.
It’s not enough power to power the high-powered LED.
In order to provide more power,
I need to hook up a PNP-type power transistor.
What this does is it kind of acts like a relay.
When the board triggers it,
it will reroute the proper voltage to the high-power LED.
This particular one is an NTE378.
This is what I’m gonna use for the power.
I pretinned the braided wire to help make this easier.
Since I’m repurposing existing electronics,
I can actually reuse a lot of the solder
that’s already on the board.
Sometimes I have to add a little, but for the most part,
I can just melt what’s there to attach my new wires.
What I’m trying to do is add the first leg
that goes to the transistor.
So what this is, is I’m actually gonna be jumping the power
from the battery pack to the transistor.
And then the black wire, I’m actually gonna use the negative
from the LED.
I’m only gonna use the negative LED lead
off the circuit board.
All of the positive power is coming from the transformer.
I don’t need to hook anything up to the positive LED lead.
I’m adding heat-shrink tubing,
so once all of this is inside of the saber,
the wires won’t short each other out.
The PNP-type power transistor actually has an orientation.
We need to make sure we hook up the right wires
to the right leg.
Now with the three legs, I need to take the negative
from the LED lead off the circuit board
and attach it to this outside leg.
And this other outside leg is where I’m gonna be
hooking up the positive lead directly from the power pack,
and when it switches, it’ll be sending that out
to the middle leg to my new high-power LED.
In order to properly hook up my high-power LED,
I’m gonna be using an LED driver.
This is a 1425 MicroPuck driver.
I also got this from LED Supply.
I’m gonna take the red, positive power wire
and hook it up to the middle leg here of the transformer.
Now you don’t have to use the MicroPuck.
You could hook up just a resistor,
but the MicroPuck will maintain the brightness of the LED
until the batteries are dead.
I’m gonna go ahead and put a piece of shrink tube
over the end of the PNP-power type transistor.
I don’t know if it’s gonna short out
inside the saber hilt or not.
I don’t want to take that chance.
And I used the black negative lead
directly to the negative on the battery
and then I have an orange positive and green negative
to hook up to the LED.
At this point, I want to attach the JST connectors
to the wires so I can disconnect the LED if I so choose.
All right.
Let’s hook up an LED.
So this is the high-power LED that I purchased.
What’s nice is on the board again,
you have these inputs of the negative and the positive
for the power.
It gives you two sets.
It doesn’t matter which one you hook up
as long as you put positive to positive
and negative to negative.
So I got my LED hooked up.
I’ll just plug in the battery.
I have my high-powered LED hooked up.
Now I’m still using the stock speaker
that was part of the toy, which of course works
and it’ll sound fine.
From my old build, I have a battery/speaker combo
that I bought.
Now this has a much deeper and richer sound,
and I actually want to use that instead,
but you don’t have to do that.
If you like, you can save yourself about 16 bucks
and just get a cheap battery holder and hook that up
and keep the speaker that came with the toy.
So what I want to do now is disconnect the stock speaker
and hook up my speaker.
(lightsaber sounds)
And that’s my speaker.
(lightsaber sounds)
I think it’s worth it.
The LED actually needs a heat sink.
This thing generates a lot of heat when it’s running.
Now you can buy a specialized heat sink
but in order to easily fit inside the saber,
I’m just going to attach a bolt to the back of it.
This will suck enough heat away from your LED,
it’s not gonna be a big deal.
Now I did go ahead and pick up
some heat sink transfer stickers from LED Supply
’cause these were really cheap,
and it fixes just like a sticker on the back.
Now this is a focusing lens.
This is a narrow beam spot.
Again, LED Supply sells this, and they are cheap.
This entire assembly was less than a dollar.
It just fits directly on top of the LED,
and now I’m gonna put shrink tubing over all of this
to hold it all together.
So this is just a piece of inch-and-a-quarter shrink tubing.
I’ll make sure the lens doesn’t fall off.
Not that I need to, but I want to trim the excess off.
Now I did this differently than I had in the previous video
but I think this way is simpler and easier for me.
Now the last thing I want to change,
I want to change the switch.
I’ve been keeping the stock switch
’cause it’s easy for testing,
you can just turn it on and turn it off,
but I have a built-in switch in my hilt that I’d rather use.
So I’m gonna disconnect this, attach one last JST connector,
and then I’m good to reassemble my saber.
(lightsaber sounds)
That’s all the electronics.
It works.
One last precaution.
I want to take another piece of clear shrink tube
and put it over the circuit board
so nothing shorts out inside the saber.
Using triple-A batteries is very easy but we found a problem
while shooting the episode for Beyond Geek.
During combat, they’ll actually pop out of the holder.
So we did two things to correct that.
First, I cut little tiny bits of EVA foam
from a garage mat and put it where the springs are.
That gave it a lot more tension,
and then we took electrical tape and wrapped it around
the top and bottom to really hold them in place.
These are just a couple of small set screws
and I’m using them to hold the battery compartment in place.
Now the LED easily fits
but I think I’d like to take a small piece of pipe
and cut it so that it actually fits snugly.
So what I have here, it’s just a piece of one-inch diameter,
schedule 80, or thin-walled, PVC pipe.
And now let’s set to work these set screws,
push against the PVC pipe.
(lightsaber sounds)
May not be quite as responsive
as the more expensive board, but come on.
I’ve got a combat-ready lightsaber
made with a $10 toy for the soundboard.
This whole build is 65, $80, depending on
if you want to just use the stock speaker or not.
(lightsaber sound)
Wish I had this when I was a kid.
Hey, thanks for watching Beyond Geek DIY Builds
If you want to see full episodes of Beyond Geek
you can catch that on Amazon for free.
Make sure you subscribe,
’cause we’ll be bringing you more exciting content.

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