Play Video

Star Trek Meets Halloween in a Captain Kirk / Michael Myers cosplay mashup

DIY Builds

In 1978, a low-budget horror movie needed a mask for their villain. They purchased a Captain Kirk mask and altered it to bring the iconic Michael Myers mask to life. Captain Kirk is finally getting his face back in this cosplay mashup merging Star Trek and Halloween to create Captain Myers.

Host: Joe Gillis

Featuring: Odin Abbott from Odin Makes


-Trick or Treat Studios Halloween 1978 Michael Myers Mask

– Red Kap Men’s Twill Action Back Coverall, White

– Ata-Boy Star Trek Command Insignia Officially Licensed Patch

– Star Trek TOS Embroidered Braid, Captain rank (I purchased mine from


If more than 35% polyester:

2 bottles – Rit DyeMore For Synthetics, Daffodil Yellow, 7 fl. oz.

1 bottle – Rit DyeMore for Synthetics, Sandstone, 7 fl. oz.

If a blend contains cotton, linen, rayon, or ramie, use:

1 bottle – Rit ColorStay Dye Fixative

Non-Synthetic Dye:

2 packages – Rit Golden Yellow Powder Dye

1 package – Rit Powder Dye Tan

Michael Myers butcher knife built by Odin Abbott on Odin Makes

Joe: I’m not sure if you know this, but Captain Kirk is Michael Myers. Back when they were making Halloween in ’78, they needed a mask for their villain. And since Halloween was a low budget movie, they purchased the Captain Kirk mask and made alterations to it. So, I wanted to do a mashup where I combined Captain Kirk and Michael Myers.
Basically, what I want to do is have the Michael Myers face, but instead of his typical coveralls, I wanted to actually make a captain’s uniform out of that, creating Captain Myers.
So I’m just gonna follow the directions. The first thing I need to do is add a teaspoon of dish detergent to help promote level dying. And then heat up the water, bringing it to around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Now I’m using a ten court pot, which is just big enough for my coveralls. Now that we’re there, I’m going to go ahead and throw on my gloves and we’re going to add the dye. I’m not sure how well this is going to work out because I needed white coveralls. And the problem is that they’re 65% polyester, 35% cotton. The formula I found online for the commanders colors is two golden yellow and one tan based on the powder coloring and those colors don’t exist in the synthetic dyeline.
Because I have to use this synthetic, I have to tweak it a little. I’m going with two daffodil yellows and one sandstone. So hopefully that works out. If not, it should be close. And I really don’t have a choice because this is 65% polyester.
I don’t know if this color’s going to work out. Man, I really hope so. ‘Cause it looks more brown than gold. Let’s go all in.
Let’s put the leg in first, sort of check the color. And actually it looks like I might be able to get away with it.
You know, hopefully everybody’s colorblind that checks out my outfit.
The first 10 minutes are, I guess the most important 10 minutes they say. So I gotta really stir this thing once it gets in there.
I’m gonna go ahead and set my timer for 30 minutes because I really need to keep it in there for 30 minutes at least, that was a very big deal.
Hopefully still doing okay in terms of the size of this stuff for going in. I mean, I checked the water beforehand, but you know, the one thing I didn’t account for was I was going to add to all that dye in there. So I may have to pull out some of this before I can keep going.
So, let me grab something that would work. I’m gonna go ahead and pull some of the water out because otherwise I’m not gonna get this properly in there. Right, now we’re getting closer.
Still pushing it.
So I’m already a bunch of minutes into my most important ten minutes. I’m not sure how well this is working. It’s dying for sure.
I just hope it’s not turning into a tie-dye situation.
Even though I’m supposed to continuously stir for 10 minutes, I’m also worried about the temp going down. ‘Cause they’re like, ah, it needs to be over 200 at least.
Oh boy, it looks like the temperature went down. So, we’re turning up the heat.
First 10 minutes is important. (laughing)
Oh, man I’m sucking at this.
So what I think the problem was is that, you know, I can’t have the coveralls in a boiling temperature. So I put them in and it cooled it down too much. I really don’t know what to do for that because the problem is, you know, I’m not getting as much water as I need so I don’t know what alternative you could have besides maybe just restarting like I’m going to and doing it for longer because ‘It’s really important’, they said that the polyester blends, get at least 30 minutes.
So, once I get this temp back up, it’s pretty much just starting again, which really sucks because I’m about like 20 minutes in, you know,
but I really don’t want this to not work.
Once I get the temperature back up past 200 degrees, I simmer my coveralls for around 45 more minutes.
I’m a big silent film fan. And this reminds me a lot of ‘The Gold Rush’, Charlie Chaplin boiling his boots to have a meal.
Well, given that a lot of extra time, you know. The color is looking pretty good. I hope it doesn’t lighten too much, but man, I just really think it’s time to do the next step.
Because my coveralls are a polyester cotton blend, I need to use the ColorStay Dye Fixative to reduce bleeding and fading. So I got to add that to my hot water I poured in here. I’m just using my other sink, my stainless steel sink. Then I ring out the excess dye in my coveralls and place them in the sink.
Ooh, it’s getting warm on my hands, gosh! Ding, that’s warm!
After stirring for 20 minutes, I rinse them in cold water and then I throw them in my washer.
So there we have it. I’ve washed it and dried it and it’s looking pretty good.
I iron on the command insignia, keeping the iron under 300 degrees so I don’t melt the polyester.
All right. The edges are on there, nice and good.
I was going to sew on the command rank, but the thread I bought was a little too thin for it so, I went to Plan B, which is liquid stitch and I’m going to just glue it all on instead. Otherwise, we will not have a Captain Meyers, we’ll just have a Michael Myers and I need mine to be a captain.
So, I’m gonna go through and get going on that.
It’s officially a captain’s uniform. There’s just one more thing needed to bring this character to life.
Odin: Well, I got the knife finished. Oh, Joe shows up so I want to get it to him so he has it on time.
Okay, that was cool.
And you’re really into character Captain Myers. That’s, that’s–Okay, this is funny enough how I thought it would be though. I love the rank, that’s cool. That looks really, really cool. (laughing) ‘Cause you know me, I’m an old school Star Trek fan so I’m really enjoying this. So are you going to like maybe use the Captain Kirk mask or you just want to just keep this one?
Joe: So I don’t break character. You know, this is what those guys who play Michael Myers do, but technically, I’m Captain Myers.
Odin: Right. Your own new character. Do whatever you want.
Joe: Yeah. Yeah. Maybe Michael Tiberius Myers.
Odin: Oh, there you are.
Joe: Yeah, I’m super stoked because I went through all the effort of putting this outfit together and it would probably be pretty easy for you to do, but I’ve never dyed anything in my life. So it was, it was quite the challenge.
Odin: It’s not easy and this is a very uniform color. This is a, this looks really good.
Joe: Yeah. – Yeah. And I know you talked about maybe putting on the black collar but
Odin: I can see how that wouldn’t work.
Joe: Yeah, it didn’t. I just sort of placed it around, tried some things, looking at it and you know, and I was just, I wasn’t excited about it at all. I was like the black shirt will have to do.
Odin: Yeah.
Joe: Yeah. Which is a Michael Meyers thing so.
Odin: Totally a Michael Myers thing. Well, here you are, sir. It’s not a batliff, but that’s okay. Kirk didn’t have one of those.
Joe: No, this is awesome because it’s a mashup, I was, you know, I’d been going back and forth between whether or not to go like with a mirror mirror dagger you know, or I just decided this would be best because it really makes it for me.
Odin: Yeah.
Joe: Yeah. So I appreciate you making me this because I was afraid I was going to get shot if I walked around with a real butcher knife so.
Odin: Oh, you’ll still get stopped.
Joe: Oh, okay. As long as I don’t get shot.
Odin: As long as you don’t get shot, right or phasered.
Joe: Or phasered.
Odin: Remember if anybody points a phaser at you, don’t suddenly step into where the animation is because if you do that, then you’re dead.
Joe: Yes. Yes. Well, here’s the great thing. Is this normally, you know, this, I love dressing up as a red shirt for Halloween.
Odin: Yes.
Joe: So this is the first time I’ve done Star Trek where I’m not a red shirt.
Odin: Really? 
Joe: Yes.
Odin: You’ve never done command or sciences before?
Joe: No. Oh heck no. If I ever had my way, that would be the role I took. If I got to go on a Star Trek, either movie or show, if they were just randomly like, “Hey Joe, what do you want to do?” I’d be like, can I beam down the whole planet, pick up a rock and die.
Odin: Early before the first commercial break.
Joe: And now that I can’t do fan films–
Odin: Right.
Joe: My only hope is that the generous folks at Paramount CBS decide to let me go do this, which I don’t see happening so–
Odin: You can dream!
Joe: I can dream. What sucks is someone needs to do this as like a fan film.
Odin: Okay.
Joe: Halloween meets Star Trek, you know? Kirk could roam around the streets looking for those red shirts.
I mean, that’s all the plot you need. Do you need any more?
Odin: Not really.
Joe: Exactly. So someone out there hopefully will do it.
Odin: Okay.
Joe: But until then, there’s always Halloween.
Odin: There’s always Halloween and Halloween.
Joe: And Halloween.
I finished off my costume with a 1978 Michael Myers mask,
added some boots and with the butcher knife, Odin built,
my Captain Meyer’s cosplay is complete.
Red shirts beware, Captain Myers is reporting to the bridge.
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe. And be sure to check out Odin’s Michael Myers knife build on Odin Makes.

Odin Makes: Michael Myers knife from Halloween 1978

Odin Makes

Odin makes the Michael Myers classic butcher knife from Halloween 1978! It’s built almost completely from foam, and with minimal power tools!


Hello I’m Odin and Halloween  is right around the corner.  
So I think today, a good idea would be to make a  prop from Halloween. I’m going to make the butcher  
knife as used by Michael Myers in the original  1978 Halloween. I made myself a simple pattern.  
To the best of my knowledge, this is the  correct size and the correct style of knife.  
I tried to look that up and it  seems like it’s the Cutco 102-12  
butcher knife which is about 17 and a half inches  long. This is um, so it’s a 12 inch blade plus a  
five and a half inch handle. So yeah that’s 17 and  a half. I want to go ahead and make it out of foam.  
I think I’m gonna have a bit of a challenge  because of the tiny little point right here.  
I have an idea about how to fix it  but I really wanted to see the shapes.  
And to get them to the point of cutting  two of them at a four millimeter  
What the Foam I also traced one copy  onto some two millimeter What the Foam.  
So this will make up the sandwich of the blade.  This is the way I, I’m thinking I want to do it is,  
is to have the, the two millimeter in the core  because I’m gonna need to add something in here to  
stiffen it up. And I think the two millimeter with  the something else is going to work. And I’ll  
add a couple of pieces of six millimeter to either  side to beef up the handle just a little bit. That  
should be fine. Now if you don’t want a thick knife  and you want a thin knife then by all means get  
a real butcher knife and just dull the edge of  the rotary tool. You can totally do that. Just the  
only place you’ll be able to take it is a private  Halloween event or a video shoot and that’s about  
it. You take it anywhere else, they’re not going to  let you bring it in. I mean not, not even cons but  
like, I’ve been to so many Halloween costume  contests in general where they wouldn’t let  
wooden staffs in because well that’s that could be  a weapon. You can’t take that in. So there’s no way  
a metal knife would be allowed anywhere. This is  why I make things out of foam so I can take stuff.  
That being said, I think I’m going to break  with my tradition a little bit. Just a little  
bit. I’ve got a serious concern over how thin  this particular knife shape gets right here.
I like to make my core out of um…
I realize there’s other things I could use.
Is this uh just four millimeter or? This  less than eight? I can actually make  
this thinner if I wanted to. All of a sudden I  can change directions mid, mid video. All right  
so I had a plan and I was gonna totally go with  it. I was gonna totally uh, uh talk about how I  
like to do things now I want to change things. And  then I realize, you use graphite rods all the time.  
And that’s all you really need. Um so what I was  thinking about, I’ve got a serious concern with how  
thin the handle gets right here. And I was  considering about breaking with tradition.  
And actually using a bit of aluminum. And making  an aluminum tang. Now I could still do this.  
What I mean by tan and knife terms… Uh you’ve  got the blade, but then the tang is the  
metal bit that goes into the grip where you, it  actually supports the blade. That’s the tang, right.  
It’s not just a drink that astronauts drink. So  I was considering making this portion out of  
aluminum. Having it stop somewhere out here.  But I don’t know why I just didn’t think  
about the fact that I’m always using graphite  rods and that just really makes me feel silly.
So why don’t I just put a graphite rod in? Why  don’t I just do what I’ve been doing, that I know  
works, that will work again. It’ll work right now.  And uh, the thin point here won’t be a problem.  
And we won’t have metal inside of it at  all. And we’ll lose two millimeters out of  
the center. All right. Hey I’m glad you could be  here as I realized that if I only do what I’ve  
done before in other videos it’ll work again and  I’ll have to do something new and work with metal.
Thanks for joining the show Odin..
I will need to cut the rod shorter. I mark my cut  point and then use the ceramic cut-off wheel to  
make the cut. I also use a grinding stone bit to  round off the edge. It’ll be less likely to cut  
through the inside of the foam. The next thing I  need is a channel in the foam for the rod to fit.  
I set the router base for my rotary tool  to cut less than the thickness of the foam  
and about half the thickness of the rod. I marked  the ends of the foam pieces I have cut to be sure  
the channel will match on both sides. Because the  foam for the blade is already cut out I need to  
tape it to the table and then add extra foam  around it so all my other tools can sit flat.  
If you want to cut a channel this way I suggest  making the channel before you cut out the basic  
blade shape. I set my ruler or router fence so  the bit will cut a line between the marks on  
the edges of the blades. Now the bit that I’m  using is a number 117 carving bit, making a  
rounded channel for the rod to fit in. And I cut  it a couple of times going back and forth making  
the channel a little wider than the bit itself  because everything’s going to fit a little better.  
I set up and cut the other side the same way. Now  if you don’t have this rotary tool router setup  
another option is to cut a channel and some  foam that’s the same thickness as the graphite  
rod, then skin over both sides with layers of two  millimeter foam. That way no power tools are needed.
It’s very important you cut a left and a right  side. If I had cut both of these the same way  
and put the… They wouldn’t fit together  right. Yeah so make sure you you do this.  
Have I done it the other way  before? Yeah of course I have.
The part fits the way that I want them to and I  can use contact cement to stick the blade together.  
Contact cement needs a few minutes to dry before  it can stick. While I wait I trace the grip shape  
onto some six millimeter What the Foam. Including  the circles that represent the pins that hold the  
knife together. I start to cut out the handle  but I leave extra foam around the outline.  
But I do cut the edge that meets up with the  blade. When the contact cement is ready I set  
the rod into the groove. This first side is easy.  What is tricky is getting the second half to fit  
over the rod and stick in the correct place  while you can’t see it. It takes a little practice  
and I didn’t get it right the very  first time I ever tried this idea.  
When I stick the grip on I set a guide in place  to make sure that I have it on correctly because  
I don’t need the grip to look bent. For the other  side I cut a larger piece of six millimeter foam  
without any of the pattern lines. And when  I stuck it in place I almost stuck it on  
too low. And I still missed, oh man. I’ll make it  right. Yeah it’ll be okay. Look at that, it’s still…  
All that and I still put it on crooked. Well  it’s not crooked but I mean I’ve got way  
too much this side I should have made it more  centered. I’m still going to be okay I’m right  
at the edge though. I’m right at the edge. Right on the edge. Okay, no, no. I’m all right.
Now that all the layers are together I can cut the  outline of the knife. Notice that I have a piece of  
six millimeter foam under the prop knife keeping  it all level and easier to cut with a razor blade.  
It’s much easier to have the  edges cut evenly if you wait until  
after all the layers are glued together.
Yep, always. I run into this a lot and then, and, and  I try to be mindful of it but it still happens to  
me. So I’m cutting here which is fairly thick.  This is the handle of the knife it’s supposed  
to be thick, right. But as I curve, the, the, the blade  flexes. You know because these blades do that. And  
I end up with a not square cut as I, as I cut along  the edge here. Uh that’s why I went ahead and tried  
to cut it a little wide. I’ve got two options on  how to proceed with fixing that. I made sure to cut  
more than I needed because I can, I can go to my  power tools very easily and, and sand this down. And  
honestly I might end up doing that. But um I bet  those will go pretty quick just with the rotary  
tool as well, which is something that is going  to be a bit more accessible to everybody else.
It did go pretty quick just using my  rotary tool. I ground the edges flat  
sanding it down to my cut lines. Rounding  the curved ends around the grip. And I can  
carve out the hook on the end as well which I  could not do with my big disc sander. I traced  
the outline onto the other side which makes it  easier to see where the grip still needs sanding.  
And I got the outlines for the pins on this side  as well. Need to do some shaping on it. Shape. But…
All right, all right, that’s going to work. I  need to round the edges over, right. Because  
that’s that’s important. But there’s an additional  shoulder piece that goes specifically on this  
knife. Uh I don’t see that on a lot anymore but  this knife’s got it. And that’s what I cut these  
two little pieces out for. These are just going to  get glued on. You put that on both sides. And that’s  
getting down to it. These pieces are so small that  I stick them on with super glue, trimming the extra  
from the top. And now I can round over the grip  of the knife matching the shape of the shoulder  
pieces. And I take my time doing this because it’s  easy to catch the edge of this bit and gouge a  
line into the foam. And once the grip is done I  grind a cutting edge into the blade. I mean it  
needs to look sharp, right. And I carve a little bit  over the top as well because that helps make for a  
sharper looking tip on the front of the blade. Just  a couple of more details to do. Now I forget what  
they’re called I’m sure those of you who do know  will let me know in, in the comments, go right ahead.  
But when you put the wooden sides of the grip of a  knife onto the center tang you’ve got these three  
rods or bolts or… They’re pieces of metal that are  driven through all of it to hold it all together. I  
want to make sure that these are seen once it’s  painted and Sharpie mark isn’t going to do it.  
To quickly cut a circle I’m using one of my  cheap leather punches that I bought online.  
The Cos-Tools drills, they’re a little too big or  a little too small for what I want for these pins.  
The last thing I want to put on is something  that I saw in some of the reference photos. I  
found photos of this knife on plenty of Halloween  fan sites, and, and sites that talk about the props  
and the costumes and the mask and everything went  into making the movie. So people have found good  
reference photos of what the knife looks like and  one of the things I see constantly in the handle  
is wood grain. But it’s not the long drawn out wood  grain like I did on axe handles like unlike on  
the God of War axe. These are just a few very small  little marks and they all go in the same direction.
In fact some of these might be too long.
And these wood grain lines remember you only  want to have on the wood part of the handle.  
The, the black section is going to be the tang,  the metal part, so that doesn’t get a wood grain.
Just making the marks is not really enough. What I  need to do next is open up all those little cuts  
by heating the foam with a heat gun. The heat gun  shrinks the surface of the foam just a little bit  
opening the cuts and making them much easier to  see. And you can also heat seal foam. Closing the  
open cells of the surface which will help  hide the foam texture in the final prop.  
Now let me be honest and say that I often  forget to do this step with my props,  
but I wanted to heat seal this one. Something  else I’ve heard about is using super glue on  
the tips and the edges of foam blades. So  I gave that a try with this build as well  
and I think I can see why you’d want to do it.  The sanded edges of foam are never that smooth,  
but after sanding the set super glue  these edges are really pretty smooth.
Now I’m going to go ahead and cover it with  Plasti-Dip which is something I do in every  
single video, but I still feel compelled to say  that I’m going to be covering this with Plasti-Dip.
So this is just the first coat of black Plasti-Dip.  I hit it pretty heavily. But we can see looking at  
the blade, I mean it’s got a decent weathered look…  Stuck to the paper a little. It’s got a decent  
weathered look to the blade but um it’s not as  smooth as I want. So I’m going to do what I’ve  
been doing which is I’m going to rub it down with  one of the solvents that will dissolve Plasti-Dip.  
And try to eliminate some of this texture and  then get a second coat on it. But this solvent  
isn’t very good to skin or your lungs so I need to  make sure to put on some protective gear before I  
open the can up and start spreading it around.  Now this is pretty easy to do, just get a paper  
towel wet and wipe the blade down. Naphtha or even  xylene are the main solvents for Plasti-Dip and  
they very quickly close the little pores and get  a low-grade glossy finish. You can also remove the  
Plasti-Dip this way so don’t go too far or you’ll  just be starting over. I think I did this three  
times but just on the blade. I didn’t wipe down  the grip at all it looks fine just the way it is.  
I decided to paint the wooden grips first. I have  a basic brown color and I paint the grips avoiding  
the metal parts. And not using so much paint that  I fill in the wood grain marks. A hair dryer can  
speed up the dry time and then I can go over the  brown again with some brown liquid shoe polish.  
That’ll add a richer color for the wood and  give some slight variance of shade to the brown.  
And once the shoe polish is dry I start to paint  all the metal areas with silver Rub N Buff paint.  
Now I don’t typically use a paint brush with Rub  N Buff but these small details require me to use  
one which is fine because I still get to finger  paint the blade. Now I find that if I want a full  
covering coat of Rub N Buff finger painting is  the way to go. And if you want to weather your prop,  
you know just show the silver edges and the tips  and highlights, then a brush or paper towel will  
still work. Or just use a whole lot less on your  finger and very lightly apply the Rub N Buff.  
And seriously Rub N Buff is one thing  where just a little can go a really long way.  
You don’t need much. In the places where I got  silver on the wood grips I can just paint over  
them again and add more shoe polish. Perfect.  Honestly I can add more shoe polish over  
all the wood parts again it just helps the  paint look a little more like stained wood.
And I might call it done.
Boy I was lucky with the spilling of the shoe  polish. I missed everything. I missed me. I missed  
the knife. I missed everything. I didn’t  miss the table, but yeah, two out of three.
A list of materials used in this project is  included in the description of this video.
This has been a prop that’s been requested for  years, and it’s kind of surprising to me I haven’t  
made it before. But you know it made sense to go  ahead and do it this year. In the past I’ve done  
Jason Voorhees’ machetes, and I’ve done Voorhees’s  mask, and I’ve done uh, uh Freddy Krueger’s glove,  
and, and I’ve done Ash’s um, Ash Ketchum’s chainsaw hand. No it’s, it’s, it’s Ashley Williams chainsaw hand.  
So it made sense that this year I need to go  ahead and do the Michael Myers kitchen knife.  
And the nice thing is, the, the kitchen knife, the  large butcher knife, this is something that’ll be  
usable with a number of different cosplays. Um it’s  not exactly right for ghost face, but it’ll pass.  
And you can certainly use this with Jason  Voorhees because he’s not too particular  
what his instruments are. And this is exactly  right for protecting yourself from Mogwai that are  
turning into gremlins after midnight. So if you do  want to make yourself a foam butcher’s knife for  
whichever cosplay you want to do, I’m going to take  the pattern that I made for this video, there’ll be  
a link in the description. That’ll be free. You  can download it. You can make one for yourself.  
And once you have one you’ll see that you’ll be  able to take this to just about any event you  
want to go to. This should pass uh, con safety for  any uh, comic-con, any, any kind of cosplay event.  
This should be fine for taking into um Halloween  contests. Certainly any kind of a private event.  
But anyway it’s nice because something like this  isn’t gonna hurt anybody, something like this is  
something that I would trust in anybody’s hand.  This is definitely something to be nice to have  
and, and be able to use in in different situations.  Because this is, this is the classic slasher  
weapon right. So yeah I had a lot of fun putting  this together I hope you guys enjoyed the video.  
And um, oh hey how’s it going? There you go. I  know that there’s going to be lots of different  
ways that you can make the Cutco knife from the  1978 Halloween movie, but this is how Odin Makes.
Okay Skyler from Cosplay Apprentice why are there  tire marks on my foam? I mean it’s not hurt. There’s  
a good testament for What the Foam. It’s got  tire marks on it. Why’s there tire marks on the foam?  
I guess it’s tough stuff it didn’t get hurt.
I love that I stumbled. I had a hard time getting the, oh!
I had a hard time getting the blade and now  I bent it. Yeah that’s all right. It landed  
it landed tipped down. That’s what’s,  yeah that’s part of the fun of foam.  
Yep my bad. Oh you can heat it up and  fix it huh? It should, should come back 90%.  
We will take 90. 95 would be good. I like totally  dropped that. That’s all right you’re in a mask.  
Yeah I wouldn’t blame the mask though. Wow  that does a freaking great job. Wow. Okay  
I officially sponsor that weapon. Officially  sponsor that weapon? Yeah that’s awesome. Yeah  
so Mr. Myers I appreciate you uh, you you  popping up in the video and helping to  
show how easy it is to fix the tip on your foam  knife it happens to get dropped accidentally.  
Um small trivia I think you’re aware of maybe  not but uh. The, the mask for the original film  
that was actually uh… They used a Captain  Kirk’s mask. I don’t know if you knew that  
or not. So uh yeah you’ve actually got  a little bit of history of Star Trek.
So if you think about it every time you see  Michael Myers you’re actually seeing Captain Myers.
I, want my, face back, Myers.
If you want to know more about Captain Myers check  out the Beyond Geek channel right here on YouTube.
Could you imagine how much energy  I had if I actually got sleep.
I want to thank Ariana C., Spencer Harris, Ryan  Mooresky, and all of my Patreon supporters.  
Patreon members at the $5 and above  level get access to my private Discord,  
which includes weekly games with me, prop  related chat, and early access to live  
streams. My Patreon support is the number  one thing that makes this show possible.  
If you like the video, don’t forget to subscribe.  Have an idea for something for me to make?  
Please leave a comment below. And if you make  any of these projects, you can send me a picture.

Related Topics

Beyond mermaids summer 2020.


For centuries, the allure of mermaids has captured the human imagination. But for some, the magic of mermaids is more than just a fairy tale—it’s a way of life. Joe Gillis dives into this world of real-life mermaids, where he discovers a world where anything can happen and we can live out our wildest fantasies as real-life mermen and mermaids.

Text: Beyond Geek Stylistic formulas and circuits in the background

Beyond Geek Series Previews

Beyond Geek Series Previews Previews Season 2 Season 2 Episodes Kinetic Sculpture Racing Kinetic Sculpture Racing 2 The Force is Strong Hackathon A Pirate’s Life