Star Trek Meets Halloween in a Captain Kirk / Michael Myers cosplay mashup

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Star Trek Meets Halloween in a Captain Kirk / Michael Myers cosplay mashup

DIY Builds

In 1978, a low-budget horror movie needed a mask for their villain. They purchased a Captain Kirk mask and altered it to bring the iconic Michael Myers mask to life. Captain Kirk is finally getting his face back in this cosplay mashup merging Star Trek and Halloween to create Captain Myers.

Host: Joe Gillis

Featuring: Odin Abbott from Odin Makes

MATERIALS

-Trick or Treat Studios Halloween 1978 Michael Myers Mask

– Red Kap Men’s Twill Action Back Coverall, White

– Ata-Boy Star Trek Command Insignia Officially Licensed Patch

– Star Trek TOS Embroidered Braid, Captain rank (I purchased mine from Katarra8.com)

DYES

If more than 35% polyester:

2 bottles – Rit DyeMore For Synthetics, Daffodil Yellow, 7 fl. oz.

1 bottle – Rit DyeMore for Synthetics, Sandstone, 7 fl. oz.

If a blend contains cotton, linen, rayon, or ramie, use:

1 bottle – Rit ColorStay Dye Fixative

Non-Synthetic Dye:

2 packages – Rit Golden Yellow Powder Dye

1 package – Rit Powder Dye Tan

Michael Myers butcher knife built by Odin Abbott on Odin Makes

Video Transcript: Star Trek Meets Halloween in a Captain Kirk / Michael Myers cosplay mashup

Joe: I’m not sure if you know this, but Captain Kirk is Michael Myers. Back when they were making Halloween in ’78, they needed a mask for their villain. And since Halloween was a low budget movie, they purchased the Captain Kirk mask and made alterations to it. So, I wanted to do a mashup where I combined Captain Kirk and Michael Myers.

Basically, what I want to do is have the Michael Myers face, but instead of his typical coveralls, I wanted to actually make a captain’s uniform out of that, creating Captain Myers.

So I’m just gonna follow the directions. The first thing I need to do is add a teaspoon of dish detergent to help promote level dying. And then heat up the water, bringing it to around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Now I’m using a ten court pot, which is just big enough for my coveralls. Now that we’re there, I’m going to go ahead and throw on my gloves and we’re going to add the dye. I’m not sure how well this is going to work out because I needed white coveralls. And the problem is that they’re 65% polyester, 35% cotton. The formula I found online for the commanders colors is two golden yellow and one tan based on the powder coloring and those colors don’t exist in the synthetic dyeline.

Because I have to use this synthetic, I have to tweak it a little. I’m going with two daffodil yellows and one sandstone. So hopefully that works out. If not, it should be close. And I really don’t have a choice because this is 65% polyester.

I don’t know if this color’s going to work out. Man, I really hope so. ‘Cause it looks more brown than gold. Let’s go all in.

Let’s put the leg in first, sort of check the color. And actually it looks like I might be able to get away with it.

You know, hopefully everybody’s colorblind that checks out my outfit.

The first 10 minutes are, I guess the most important 10 minutes they say. So I gotta really stir this thing once it gets in there.

I’m gonna go ahead and set my timer for 30 minutes because I really need to keep it in there for 30 minutes at least, that was a very big deal.

Hopefully still doing okay in terms of the size of this stuff for going in. I mean, I checked the water beforehand, but you know, the one thing I didn’t account for was I was going to add to all that dye in there. So I may have to pull out some of this before I can keep going.

So, let me grab something that would work. I’m gonna go ahead and pull some of the water out because otherwise I’m not gonna get this properly in there. Right, now we’re getting closer.

Still pushing it.

So I’m already a bunch of minutes into my most important ten minutes. I’m not sure how well this is working. It’s dying for sure.

I just hope it’s not turning into a tie-dye situation.

Even though I’m supposed to continuously stir for 10 minutes, I’m also worried about the temp going down. ‘Cause they’re like, ah, it needs to be over 200 at least.

Oh boy, it looks like the temperature went down. So, we’re turning up the heat.

First 10 minutes is important. (laughing)

Oh, man I’m sucking at this.

So what I think the problem was is that, you know, I can’t have the coveralls in a boiling temperature. So I put them in and it cooled it down too much. I really don’t know what to do for that because the problem is, you know, I’m not getting as much water as I need so I don’t know what alternative you could have besides maybe just restarting like I’m going to and doing it for longer because ‘It’s really important’, they said that the polyester blends, get at least 30 minutes.

So, once I get this temp back up, it’s pretty much just starting again, which really sucks because I’m about like 20 minutes in, you know,

but I really don’t want this to not work.

Once I get the temperature back up past 200 degrees, I simmer my coveralls for around 45 more minutes.

I’m a big silent film fan. And this reminds me a lot of ‘The Gold Rush’, Charlie Chaplin boiling his boots to have a meal.

Well, given that a lot of extra time, you know. The color is looking pretty good. I hope it doesn’t lighten too much, but man, I just really think it’s time to do the next step.

Because my coveralls are a polyester cotton blend, I need to use the ColorStay Dye Fixative to reduce bleeding and fading. So I got to add that to my hot water I poured in here. I’m just using my other sink, my stainless steel sink. Then I ring out the excess dye in my coveralls and place them in the sink.

Ooh, it’s getting warm on my hands, gosh! Ding, that’s warm!

After stirring for 20 minutes, I rinse them in cold water and then I throw them in my washer.

So there we have it. I’ve washed it and dried it and it’s looking pretty good.

I iron on the command insignia, keeping the iron under 300 degrees so I don’t melt the polyester.

All right. The edges are on there, nice and good.

I was going to sew on the command rank, but the thread I bought was a little too thin for it so, I went to Plan B, which is liquid stitch and I’m going to just glue it all on instead. Otherwise, we will not have a Captain Meyers, we’ll just have a Michael Myers and I need mine to be a captain.

So, I’m gonna go through and get going on that.

It’s officially a captain’s uniform. There’s just one more thing needed to bring this character to life.

Odin: Well, I got the knife finished. Oh, Joe shows up so I want to get it to him so he has it on time.

Okay, that was cool.

And you’re really into character Captain Myers. That’s, that’s–Okay, this is funny enough how I thought it would be though. I love the rank, that’s cool. That looks really, really cool. (laughing) ‘Cause you know me, I’m an old school Star Trek fan so I’m really enjoying this. So are you going to like maybe use the Captain Kirk mask or you just want to just keep this one?

Joe: So I don’t break character. You know, this is what those guys who play Michael Myers do, but technically, I’m Captain Myers.

Odin: Right. Your own new character. Do whatever you want.

Joe: Yeah. Yeah. Maybe Michael Tiberius Myers.

Odin: Oh, there you are.

Joe: Yeah, I’m super stoked because I went through all the effort of putting this outfit together and it would probably be pretty easy for you to do, but I’ve never dyed anything in my life. So it was, it was quite the challenge.

Odin: It’s not easy and this is a very uniform color. This is a, this looks really good.

Joe: Yeah. – Yeah. And I know you talked about maybe putting on the black collar but

Odin: I can see how that wouldn’t work.

Joe: Yeah, it didn’t. I just sort of placed it around, tried some things, looking at it and you know, and I was just, I wasn’t excited about it at all. I was like the black shirt will have to do.

Odin: Yeah.

Joe: Yeah. Which is a Michael Meyers thing so.

Odin: Totally a Michael Myers thing. Well, here you are, sir. It’s not a batliff, but that’s okay. Kirk didn’t have one of those.

Joe: No, this is awesome because it’s a mashup, I was, you know, I’d been going back and forth between whether or not to go like with a mirror mirror dagger you know, or I just decided this would be best because it really makes it for me.

Odin: Yeah.

Joe: Yeah. So I appreciate you making me this because I was afraid I was going to get shot if I walked around with a real butcher knife so.

Odin: Oh, you’ll still get stopped.

Joe: Oh, okay. As long as I don’t get shot.

Odin: As long as you don’t get shot, right or phasered.

Joe: Or phasered.

Odin: Remember if anybody points a phaser at you, don’t suddenly step into where the animation is because if you do that, then you’re dead.

Joe: Yes. Yes. Well, here’s the great thing. Is this normally, you know, this, I love dressing up as a red shirt for Halloween.

Odin: Yes.

Joe: So this is the first time I’ve done Star Trek where I’m not a red shirt.

Odin: Really?

Joe: Yes.

Odin: You’ve never done command or sciences before?

Joe: No. Oh heck no. If I ever had my way, that would be the role I took. If I got to go on a Star Trek, either movie or show, if they were just randomly like, “Hey Joe, what do you want to do?” I’d be like, can I beam down the whole planet, pick up a rock and die.

Odin: Early before the first commercial break.

Joe: And now that I can’t do fan films–

Odin: Right.

Joe: My only hope is that the generous folks at Paramount CBS decide to let me go do this, which I don’t see happening so–

Odin: You can dream!

Joe: I can dream. What sucks is someone needs to do this as like a fan film.

Odin: Okay.

Joe: Halloween meets Star Trek, you know? Kirk could roam around the streets looking for those red shirts.

I mean, that’s all the plot you need. Do you need any more?

Odin: Not really.

Joe: Exactly. So someone out there hopefully will do it.

Odin: Okay.

Joe: But until then, there’s always Halloween.

Odin: There’s always Halloween and Halloween.

Joe: And Halloween.

I finished off my costume with a 1978 Michael Myers mask,

added some boots and with the butcher knife, Odin built,

my Captain Meyer’s cosplay is complete.

Red shirts beware, Captain Myers is reporting to the bridge.

Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe. And be sure to check out Odin’s Michael Myers knife build on Odin Makes.

Odin Makes: Michael Myers knife from Halloween 1978

Odin Makes

Odin makes the Michael Myers classic butcher knife from Halloween 1978! It’s built almost completely from foam, and with minimal power tools!

Video Transcript: Odin Makes: Michael Myers knife from Halloween 1978

Hello I’m Odin and Halloween is right around the corner.

So I think today, a good idea would be to make a prop from Halloween. I’m going to make the butcher

knife as used by Michael Myers in the original 1978 Halloween. I made myself a simple pattern.

To the best of my knowledge, this is the correct size and the correct style of knife.

I tried to look that up and it seems like it’s the Cutco 102-12

butcher knife which is about 17 and a half inches long. This is um, so it’s a 12 inch blade plus a

five and a half inch handle. So yeah that’s 17 and a half. I want to go ahead and make it out of foam.

I think I’m gonna have a bit of a challenge because of the tiny little point right here.

I have an idea about how to fix it but I really wanted to see the shapes.

And to get them to the point of cutting two of them at a four millimeter

What the Foam I also traced one copy onto some two millimeter What the Foam.

So this will make up the sandwich of the blade. This is the way I, I’m thinking I want to do it is,

is to have the, the two millimeter in the core because I’m gonna need to add something in here to

stiffen it up. And I think the two millimeter with the something else is going to work. And I’ll

add a couple of pieces of six millimeter to either side to beef up the handle just a little bit. That

should be fine. Now if you don’t want a thick knife and you want a thin knife then by all means get

a real butcher knife and just dull the edge of the rotary tool. You can totally do that. Just the

only place you’ll be able to take it is a private Halloween event or a video shoot and that’s about

it. You take it anywhere else, they’re not going to let you bring it in. I mean not, not even cons but

like, I’ve been to so many Halloween costume contests in general where they wouldn’t let

wooden staffs in because well that’s that could be a weapon. You can’t take that in. So there’s no way

a metal knife would be allowed anywhere. This is why I make things out of foam so I can take stuff.

That being said, I think I’m going to break with my tradition a little bit. Just a little

bit. I’ve got a serious concern over how thin this particular knife shape gets right here.

I like to make my core out of um…

I realize there’s other things I could use.

Is this uh just four millimeter or? This less than eight? I can actually make

this thinner if I wanted to. All of a sudden I can change directions mid, mid video. All right

so I had a plan and I was gonna totally go with it. I was gonna totally uh, uh talk about how I

like to do things now I want to change things. And then I realize, you use graphite rods all the time.

And that’s all you really need. Um so what I was thinking about, I’ve got a serious concern with how

thin the handle gets right here. And I was considering about breaking with tradition.

And actually using a bit of aluminum. And making an aluminum tang. Now I could still do this.

What I mean by tan and knife terms… Uh you’ve got the blade, but then the tang is the

metal bit that goes into the grip where you, it actually supports the blade. That’s the tang, right.

It’s not just a drink that astronauts drink. So I was considering making this portion out of

aluminum. Having it stop somewhere out here. But I don’t know why I just didn’t think

about the fact that I’m always using graphite rods and that just really makes me feel silly.

So why don’t I just put a graphite rod in? Why don’t I just do what I’ve been doing, that I know

works, that will work again. It’ll work right now. And uh, the thin point here won’t be a problem.

And we won’t have metal inside of it at all. And we’ll lose two millimeters out of

the center. All right. Hey I’m glad you could be here as I realized that if I only do what I’ve

done before in other videos it’ll work again and I’ll have to do something new and work with metal.

Thanks for joining the show Odin..

I will need to cut the rod shorter. I mark my cut point and then use the ceramic cut-off wheel to

make the cut. I also use a grinding stone bit to round off the edge. It’ll be less likely to cut

through the inside of the foam. The next thing I need is a channel in the foam for the rod to fit.

I set the router base for my rotary tool to cut less than the thickness of the foam

and about half the thickness of the rod. I marked the ends of the foam pieces I have cut to be sure

the channel will match on both sides. Because the foam for the blade is already cut out I need to

tape it to the table and then add extra foam around it so all my other tools can sit flat.

If you want to cut a channel this way I suggest making the channel before you cut out the basic

blade shape. I set my ruler or router fence so the bit will cut a line between the marks on

the edges of the blades. Now the bit that I’m using is a number 117 carving bit, making a

rounded channel for the rod to fit in. And I cut it a couple of times going back and forth making

the channel a little wider than the bit itself because everything’s going to fit a little better.

I set up and cut the other side the same way. Now if you don’t have this rotary tool router setup

another option is to cut a channel and some foam that’s the same thickness as the graphite

rod, then skin over both sides with layers of two millimeter foam. That way no power tools are needed.

It’s very important you cut a left and a right side. If I had cut both of these the same way

and put the… They wouldn’t fit together right. Yeah so make sure you you do this.

Have I done it the other way before? Yeah of course I have.

The part fits the way that I want them to and I can use contact cement to stick the blade together.

Contact cement needs a few minutes to dry before it can stick. While I wait I trace the grip shape

onto some six millimeter What the Foam. Including the circles that represent the pins that hold the

knife together. I start to cut out the handle but I leave extra foam around the outline.

But I do cut the edge that meets up with the blade. When the contact cement is ready I set

the rod into the groove. This first side is easy. What is tricky is getting the second half to fit

over the rod and stick in the correct place while you can’t see it. It takes a little practice

and I didn’t get it right the very first time I ever tried this idea.

When I stick the grip on I set a guide in place to make sure that I have it on correctly because

I don’t need the grip to look bent. For the other side I cut a larger piece of six millimeter foam

without any of the pattern lines. And when I stuck it in place I almost stuck it on

too low. And I still missed, oh man. I’ll make it right. Yeah it’ll be okay. Look at that, it’s still…

All that and I still put it on crooked. Well it’s not crooked but I mean I’ve got way

too much this side I should have made it more centered. I’m still going to be okay I’m right

at the edge though. I’m right at the edge. Right on the edge. Okay, no, no. I’m all right.

Now that all the layers are together I can cut the outline of the knife. Notice that I have a piece of

six millimeter foam under the prop knife keeping it all level and easier to cut with a razor blade.

It’s much easier to have the edges cut evenly if you wait until

after all the layers are glued together.

Yep, always. I run into this a lot and then, and, and I try to be mindful of it but it still happens to

me. So I’m cutting here which is fairly thick. This is the handle of the knife it’s supposed

to be thick, right. But as I curve, the, the, the blade flexes. You know because these blades do that. And

I end up with a not square cut as I, as I cut along the edge here. Uh that’s why I went ahead and tried

to cut it a little wide. I’ve got two options on how to proceed with fixing that. I made sure to cut

more than I needed because I can, I can go to my power tools very easily and, and sand this down. And

honestly I might end up doing that. But um I bet those will go pretty quick just with the rotary

tool as well, which is something that is going to be a bit more accessible to everybody else.

It did go pretty quick just using my rotary tool. I ground the edges flat

sanding it down to my cut lines. Rounding the curved ends around the grip. And I can

carve out the hook on the end as well which I could not do with my big disc sander. I traced

the outline onto the other side which makes it easier to see where the grip still needs sanding.

And I got the outlines for the pins on this side as well. Need to do some shaping on it. Shape. But…

All right, all right, that’s going to work. I need to round the edges over, right. Because

that’s that’s important. But there’s an additional shoulder piece that goes specifically on this

knife. Uh I don’t see that on a lot anymore but this knife’s got it. And that’s what I cut these

two little pieces out for. These are just going to get glued on. You put that on both sides. And that’s

getting down to it. These pieces are so small that I stick them on with super glue, trimming the extra

from the top. And now I can round over the grip of the knife matching the shape of the shoulder

pieces. And I take my time doing this because it’s easy to catch the edge of this bit and gouge a

line into the foam. And once the grip is done I grind a cutting edge into the blade. I mean it

needs to look sharp, right. And I carve a little bit over the top as well because that helps make for a

sharper looking tip on the front of the blade. Just a couple of more details to do. Now I forget what

they’re called I’m sure those of you who do know will let me know in, in the comments, go right ahead.

But when you put the wooden sides of the grip of a knife onto the center tang you’ve got these three

rods or bolts or… They’re pieces of metal that are driven through all of it to hold it all together. I

want to make sure that these are seen once it’s painted and Sharpie mark isn’t going to do it.

To quickly cut a circle I’m using one of my cheap leather punches that I bought online.

The Cos-Tools drills, they’re a little too big or a little too small for what I want for these pins.

The last thing I want to put on is something that I saw in some of the reference photos. I

found photos of this knife on plenty of Halloween fan sites, and, and sites that talk about the props

and the costumes and the mask and everything went into making the movie. So people have found good

reference photos of what the knife looks like and one of the things I see constantly in the handle

is wood grain. But it’s not the long drawn out wood grain like I did on axe handles like unlike on

the God of War axe. These are just a few very small little marks and they all go in the same direction.

In fact some of these might be too long.

And these wood grain lines remember you only want to have on the wood part of the handle.

The, the black section is going to be the tang, the metal part, so that doesn’t get a wood grain.

Just making the marks is not really enough. What I need to do next is open up all those little cuts

by heating the foam with a heat gun. The heat gun shrinks the surface of the foam just a little bit

opening the cuts and making them much easier to see. And you can also heat seal foam. Closing the

open cells of the surface which will help hide the foam texture in the final prop.

Now let me be honest and say that I often forget to do this step with my props,

but I wanted to heat seal this one. Something else I’ve heard about is using super glue on

the tips and the edges of foam blades. So I gave that a try with this build as well

and I think I can see why you’d want to do it. The sanded edges of foam are never that smooth,

but after sanding the set super glue these edges are really pretty smooth.

Now I’m going to go ahead and cover it with Plasti-Dip which is something I do in every

single video, but I still feel compelled to say that I’m going to be covering this with Plasti-Dip.

So this is just the first coat of black Plasti-Dip. I hit it pretty heavily. But we can see looking at

the blade, I mean it’s got a decent weathered look… Stuck to the paper a little. It’s got a decent

weathered look to the blade but um it’s not as smooth as I want. So I’m going to do what I’ve

been doing which is I’m going to rub it down with one of the solvents that will dissolve Plasti-Dip.

And try to eliminate some of this texture and then get a second coat on it. But this solvent

isn’t very good to skin or your lungs so I need to make sure to put on some protective gear before I

open the can up and start spreading it around. Now this is pretty easy to do, just get a paper

towel wet and wipe the blade down. Naphtha or even xylene are the main solvents for Plasti-Dip and

they very quickly close the little pores and get a low-grade glossy finish. You can also remove the

Plasti-Dip this way so don’t go too far or you’ll just be starting over. I think I did this three

times but just on the blade. I didn’t wipe down the grip at all it looks fine just the way it is.

I decided to paint the wooden grips first. I have a basic brown color and I paint the grips avoiding

the metal parts. And not using so much paint that I fill in the wood grain marks. A hair dryer can

speed up the dry time and then I can go over the brown again with some brown liquid shoe polish.

That’ll add a richer color for the wood and give some slight variance of shade to the brown.

And once the shoe polish is dry I start to paint all the metal areas with silver Rub N Buff paint.

Now I don’t typically use a paint brush with Rub N Buff but these small details require me to use

one which is fine because I still get to finger paint the blade. Now I find that if I want a full

covering coat of Rub N Buff finger painting is the way to go. And if you want to weather your prop,

you know just show the silver edges and the tips and highlights, then a brush or paper towel will

still work. Or just use a whole lot less on your finger and very lightly apply the Rub N Buff.

And seriously Rub N Buff is one thing where just a little can go a really long way.

You don’t need much. In the places where I got silver on the wood grips I can just paint over

them again and add more shoe polish. Perfect. Honestly I can add more shoe polish over

all the wood parts again it just helps the paint look a little more like stained wood.

And I might call it done.

Boy I was lucky with the spilling of the shoe polish. I missed everything. I missed me. I missed

the knife. I missed everything. I didn’t miss the table, but yeah, two out of three.

A list of materials used in this project is included in the description of this video.

This has been a prop that’s been requested for years, and it’s kind of surprising to me I haven’t

made it before. But you know it made sense to go ahead and do it this year. In the past I’ve done

Jason Voorhees’ machetes, and I’ve done Voorhees’s mask, and I’ve done uh, uh Freddy Krueger’s glove,

and, and I’ve done Ash’s um, Ash Ketchum’s chainsaw hand. No it’s, it’s, it’s Ashley Williams chainsaw hand.

So it made sense that this year I need to go ahead and do the Michael Myers kitchen knife.

And the nice thing is, the, the kitchen knife, the large butcher knife, this is something that’ll be

usable with a number of different cosplays. Um it’s not exactly right for ghost face, but it’ll pass.

And you can certainly use this with Jason Voorhees because he’s not too particular

what his instruments are. And this is exactly right for protecting yourself from Mogwai that are

turning into gremlins after midnight. So if you do want to make yourself a foam butcher’s knife for

whichever cosplay you want to do, I’m going to take the pattern that I made for this video, there’ll be

a link in the description. That’ll be free. You can download it. You can make one for yourself.

And once you have one you’ll see that you’ll be able to take this to just about any event you

want to go to. This should pass uh, con safety for any uh, comic-con, any, any kind of cosplay event.

This should be fine for taking into um Halloween contests. Certainly any kind of a private event.

But anyway it’s nice because something like this isn’t gonna hurt anybody, something like this is

something that I would trust in anybody’s hand. This is definitely something to be nice to have

and, and be able to use in in different situations. Because this is, this is the classic slasher

weapon right. So yeah I had a lot of fun putting this together I hope you guys enjoyed the video.

And um, oh hey how’s it going? There you go. I know that there’s going to be lots of different

ways that you can make the Cutco knife from the 1978 Halloween movie, but this is how Odin Makes.

Okay Skyler from Cosplay Apprentice why are there tire marks on my foam? I mean it’s not hurt. There’s

a good testament for What the Foam. It’s got tire marks on it. Why’s there tire marks on the foam?

I guess it’s tough stuff it didn’t get hurt.

I love that I stumbled. I had a hard time getting the, oh!

I had a hard time getting the blade and now I bent it. Yeah that’s all right. It landed

it landed tipped down. That’s what’s, yeah that’s part of the fun of foam.

Yep my bad. Oh you can heat it up and fix it huh? It should, should come back 90%.

We will take 90. 95 would be good. I like totally dropped that. That’s all right you’re in a mask.

Yeah I wouldn’t blame the mask though. Wow that does a freaking great job. Wow. Okay

I officially sponsor that weapon. Officially sponsor that weapon? Yeah that’s awesome. Yeah

so Mr. Myers I appreciate you uh, you you popping up in the video and helping to

show how easy it is to fix the tip on your foam knife it happens to get dropped accidentally.

Um small trivia I think you’re aware of maybe not but uh. The, the mask for the original film

that was actually uh… They used a Captain Kirk’s mask. I don’t know if you knew that

or not. So uh yeah you’ve actually got a little bit of history of Star Trek.

So if you think about it every time you see Michael Myers you’re actually seeing Captain Myers.

I, want my, face back, Myers.

If you want to know more about Captain Myers check out the Beyond Geek channel right here on YouTube.

Could you imagine how much energy I had if I actually got sleep.

I want to thank Ariana C., Spencer Harris, Ryan Mooresky, and all of my Patreon supporters.

Patreon members at the $5 and above level get access to my private Discord,

which includes weekly games with me, prop related chat, and early access to live

streams. My Patreon support is the number one thing that makes this show possible.

If you like the video, don’t forget to subscribe. Have an idea for something for me to make?

Please leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture.

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